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Liverpool Echo

I flew to the island with a ‘silent city’ 3 hours from the UK and uncovered its best kept secret

If you want delicious, cheap food, surrounded by the most beautiful architecture and landscapes there is no reason not to visit Malta

I visited Malta and fell in love with the European country
I visited Malta and fell in love with the European country

I didn’t know it was possible to find peace, in half term, in a city but I found all three on my most recent trip to Malta. Walking through the narrow, medieval streets of Mdina I had almost forgotten I was in a tourist hotspot on what is naturally one of the busiest times of year for travel. But, exploring the once capital city of Malta it really felt like time had stood still.

Known as the “silent city” Mdina was once the bustling capital of Malta, however when most of its population moved to Valletta it became somewhat of a “ghost town” and still to this day only a few hundred residents live within its fortified walls.


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I took a short 20 minute car journey from St Julian’s to Mdina, where I was staying at the stunning five star Corinthia St George's Bay hotel, and was blown away from the outset. As I walked through the Vilhena Gate, which is the main entrance into the ancient walled city it was like stepping into a film set.

Picture of Mdina Gate
As I walked through Mdina Gate also known as the Vilhena Gate it was like I had stepped into a medieval fairytale

So, when I heard the location had actually been used for many scenes in Game of Thrones I wasn't surprised. No cars, apart from the few residents with a special permit, are allowed in the city, which just added to its peaceful vibe, with only the clip clop of the horse drawn carriages, taking tourists around the stunning city.


The city felt like a museum in itself and I could have spent hours just simply looking at the pretty, painted doors and extravagant door knockers on the houses in the narrow, stone streets.

One of the silent, narrow, cobbled streets in Mdina
Mdina is known as the 'silent city' and has a population of around 250 people

At every turn there is something worthy of a picture, most notably St Paul’s Cathedral, built between 1694 and 1704 which stands at the heart of the city and tourists can go inside for €10. However with 365 churches in Malta there are practically hundreds you can enter for free such as The Carmelite Priory, which dates back to the 17th century and was absolutely beautiful.


Mdina was just one of the many locations I explored after touching down on the island after a three hour flight from Liverpool John Lennon Airport. I was on easyJet's new route to Malta and my trip to the island couldn't have been smoother. There were absolutely no queues at check-in and I was through security and sat ordering my first drink in Monty's Diner within 15 minutes of entering the airport. Half term chaos, what half term chaos?

A pretty red door in Mdina, Malta
Down every quaint street on every corner you will find the most exquisite, brightly painted house doors

My trip was organised through Visit Malta and I was greeted by my incredibly knowledgeable and friendly tour guide Vincent DeBona at Malta's only airport in Luqa, which is just three miles from the capital Valletta.


Although for most of my trip, bar a ferry ride that I will come on to, I was travelling by car, Vincent was full of praise for Malta's very reliable and cheap bus service, which is just as well, as the island has no trains or trams. It's around €20 for a weekly bus ticket and you can get to most destinations on the island this way.

Valletta was where my first taste of Malta began after an ideal morning start, sitting on my hotel balcony with views overlooking the sea. Before visiting any capital city I think it's hard not to have a preconceived idea in your head which is usually 'this is going to be expensive, busy and a bit of a novelty' but how wrong I was.

The city is actually the smallest capital city in the EU which is where its nickname 'the one hour city' comes from as you could, if you wanted, walk around the whole city in about an hour.


Inside St John's Co-Cathedral
St John's Co-Cathedral is absolutely stunning and a must visit in Valletta

However, in my opinion, you'd be mad to spend such a short time taking in this small but mighty, fortified city and the masses it has to offer. I am by no means religious but you don't have to be to appreciate the absolute beauty of St John's Co-Cathedral. It is without question one of the city's main 'tourist' attractions and is priced at €15 for adults, €12 for seniors and students, and free for children under 12 when accompanied by an adult. You need to pre-book and it's advisable to go as soon as it opens at 9am to avoid queues.

That being said, I think I'd queue all day long to experience this absolutely stunning example of Baroque architecture. There was no other word for it than breathtaking. The interior is absolutely drenched in 24-carat gold leaf and the ceiling is a hand painted masterpiece, depicting scenes from the life of St. John the Baptist, created by the Baroque artist Mattia Preti.


The Saluting Battery in Valletta fires cannons and crowds can gather to watch the spectacle for free.
The Saluting Battery in Valletta fires cannons and crowds can gather to watch the spectacle for free.

Take a look inside The Grand Masters' Crypt - a chamber beneath the high altar and you cannot leave without going to see one of the most internationally recognised paintings 'The Beheading of St John the Baptist' (1608), by Caravaggio.

Naturally being one of the most visited locations in Valletta I expected the food and drink establishments surrounding it to hike up their prices in a bid to trick tourists. I have also had a very bad experience in the past with a hugely expensive bill in a restaurant outside the Vatican in Rome. However, located literally a stone's throw away from St John's Co-Cathedral in Republic Square our bill for three waters and two coffees (the coffee was to die for) was a very reasonable €10.50 - a theme that carried on through my trip.


Tonio Rubino who owns Rubino which is nestled on 'Old Bakery Street' and serves the most delicious food
Tonio Rubino who owns Rubino which is nestled on 'Old Bakery Street' and serves the most delicious food

Nestled down the 'old bakery street' and one of the oldest streets in Valletta was our lunch spot at Rubino. Smiling owner Tonio Rubino reeled off his entire menu to us at our table and the dishes that followed were absolutely mouthwatering, from homemade hummus with an assortment of breads to caponata and I would 100% recommend the pork fillets with honey and thyme.

I'd definitely take a wander past in the morning and book a table ahead of time to not be disappointed, as this absolute gem is not to be missed, much like its 'death by chocolate' dessert.


Aerial view of The Three Cities overlooking Valletta Harbour
Aerial view of The Three Cities overlooking Valletta Harbour(Image: Visit Malta)

Built purely as a defensive city Valletta, has a unique grid layout and with its fortifications that surround the city it is very easy to explore. A perfect glimpse into Malta's military history and a very memorable and enjoyable experience I witnessed was in the Upper Barrakka Gardens.

At noon and 4pm every day (apart from Sunday) The Saluting Battery in Valletta fires cannons and crowds can gather to watch the spectacle for free. It's an absolute must if you are visiting with children.


I would advise getting there 15-30 minutes before the start time to get a good spot, as where the cannons are fired offers spectacular views of the Grand Harbour.

Next on my agenda was a visit to the 'Three Cities' - Vittoriosa (formerly Birgu), Senglea (formerly Isla), and Cospicua (formerly Bormla) and one totally stole my heart.

Standing in his doorway, smiling at everyone who walked past, was Charlie Bugeja - the owner of the oldest building still standing in Vittoriosa.


Charlie Bugeja - the owner of the oldest building still standing in Vittoriosa.
Charlie Bugeja - the owner of the oldest building still standing in Vittoriosa.

Located on North Street (Triq it-Tramuntana) 'The Norman House' is a true hidden gem and Charlie has painstakingly restored it with love and now shows it off with pride, for free, to those who are lucky enough to stumble upon it.

There are almost too many positives to note about Malta but I would be doing the island an absolute injustice if I didn't mention the incredible food I enjoyed.


Malta was ruled by the Romans, the Arabs as well as the Brits and the great mix of cultural influences around the island is most prevalent in its food offerings.

The food I had in Malta was incredible, in particular this Octopus dish in Ill-Kartell
The food I had in Malta was incredible, in particular this Octopus dish in Ill-Kartell

I devoured the best beef I had ever tasted at The Harbour Club and a pizza that could feed a family in Don Berto. But there were a number of fish dishes that, weeks on, I am still reminiscing about. Sole by Tarragon served the most melt in your mouth sea bass, while OKA's jam packed fresh fish cakes were out of this world. I also tried octopus for the very first time in Il-Kartell and it was simply exquisite.


I devoured the best beef I had ever tasted at The Harbour Club
I devoured the best beef I had ever tasted at The Harbour Club

It's unsurprising how fresh the fish tasted with the island surrounded by the glistening Mediterranean sea and I got a glimpse into how the island's fish was caught at the picturesque, colourful Fishing Village in Marsaxlokk, close to the Three Cities. Everyday dozens of fishermen bring in the catch of the day on their colourful traditional boats, which alone are worth a trip to see. And I am told there is an impressive Sunday market.

OKA's jampacked fresh fish cakes were out of this world
OKA's jampacked fresh fish cakes were out of this world

I took to the water myself on my trip, not in a fishing boat, but onboard the ferry to Gozo. Much like Malta's very reliable bus service I was told how the ferry has gone years without a single cancellation. There are two options for the ferry - a 25-minute trip from the Cirkewwa terminal, found in the North of Malta, or a 45-minute ferry from the capital city Valletta.

Gozo, which as an island produces more than half of the food that Malta eats, has a vast and beautiful countryside the views of which can be most enjoyed from The Citadel - an historical fortified city in the heart of Victoria and once home to 50 families.

Marsaxlokk Harbour and Fishing Village
Marsaxlokk Harbour and Fishing Village

It is also home to a UNESCO World Heritage site which is of course worth visiting at the Ggantija Archaeological Park. Yet probably one of the most popular spots, and I can see why, is Dwejra Bay, home to the Blue Hole and Fungus Rock.

The Knights of St John called Fungus Rock it 'Mushroom Rock', for its purported medicinal value in treating dysentery and wounds.
The Knights of St John called Fungus Rock it 'Mushroom Rock', for its purported medicinal value in treating dysentery and wounds.

Again used as a filming location for Game of Thrones, the area is super popular with divers and once with the Knights of St John who called Fungus Rock 'Mushroom Rock', for its purported medicinal value in treating dysentery and wounds.


Another prominent attraction on the island and my most enjoyable location was The Xwejni Salt Pans. I absolutely adored going off the beaten track and visiting the Leli Tal-Melh Salt Shop where I was greeted by Josephine Xuereb, who alongside her family, keeps the tradition of natural salt collection alive in Malta.

The Xwejni Salt Pans
The Xwejni Salt Pans

The family has for generations collected and supplied salt to the island and beyond and on average collect up to 12 tonnes of salt per year, depending on the weather, from their 3km of salt pans. A trip to, without question, add to your Malta bucket list.


What genuinely surprised me about Malta was its roads and, for a city, the lack of unruly bikes and mopeds, weaving in and out of traffic. As a former British colony Malta drives on the left after taking inspiration from the UK and I got very acquainted with the roads thanks to the Rolling Geeks. What is that I hear you ask? Well at this point I had travelled by plane, car and boat, so why not by golf buggy?

Josephine Xuereb, who alongside her family, keeps the tradition of natural salt collection alive in Malta.
Josephine Xuereb, who alongside her family, keeps the tradition of natural salt collection alive in Malta.


Rolling Geeks are self drive electric cars, complete with pre-programmed GPS that offer the perfect way to explore the Three Cities. It was by far the funniest and most nerve wracking experience, in a good way, of the trip and thanks to the inbuilt selfie camera inside the vehicle I have memories galore of the ride. Pre-booking is definitely recommended and a 2.5hr tour is €95 per car based on two adults and two children. Or €115 for four adults with shorter trips also available.

Rolling Geeks are self drive electric cars, complete with pre-programmed GPS that offer the perfect way to explore the Three Cities
Rolling Geeks are self drive electric cars, complete with pre-programmed GPS that offer the perfect way to explore the Three Cities

And while I'd ignited the daredevil inside of me it was only fitting to travel to St Julian's and try out a first-of-its-kind experience for the island at Odyssey Malta - located in Mercury Tower, the tallest building in Malta.


The attraction is the first immersive simulation ride in Malta, which flies (quite literally) guests through the island's vast history while they are suspended with their feet dangling before a 10-metre spherical screen. I was genuinely blown away by the ride and could not recommend it enough to adults and families alike.

But what really took my breath away and was the most perfect way to reflect on my trip was the opportunity to take a lift up to the 33rd floor of Mercury Tower and get the best unobstructed view of Malta.

The incredible view from the 33rd floor of Mercury Tower in St Julian's where you can enjoy the island's first immersive simulation ride in Malta
The incredible view from the 33rd floor of Mercury Tower in St Julian's where you can enjoy the island's first immersive simulation ride in Malta

And as I stood there admiring the incredible view and taking in the last four days of my trip I found myself asking why anyone wouldn't want to come to Malta.

I feel like I unlocked a secret to exploring the island with ease by visiting in February and would most definitely recommend visiting in its quieter months from February to April, when the weather is still warm but you at no point ever feel overcrowded or hassled.

If you want an European destination that is safe and easy to explore, with cheap and delicious food and the most remarkable landscapes and architecture then Malta simply has to be on your list. Trust me, it will not disappoint.


Hotel

Lead rate is - £202 a night for a Superior Queen room


Flights

  • easyJet offers flights to Malta from Liverpool, as well as London Gatwick, Manchester, Bristol, London Luton, and Birmingham (starting 3rd June 2025). Additionally, flights from Southend Airport will begin on 31st March 2025. Return fares with easyJet typically start from around £85, depending on the season. The average flight time is three hours.

Tour guide

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  • Vincent DeBono vincedebonoguide@gmail.com

Guided tour

  • Booking a guided tour in Malta is a straightforward process, you can choose from tours via Get your Guide or Viator. Starting at £15 for a walking group tour and up to £127 for a guided group day trip of multiple cities.
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