Looking for fresh leeks? Select the bright green-and-white

Lloyds’ produce aisle was filled with bunches of freshly harvested leeks this week. Unlike the tired bunches often seen at the supermarkets, these were neatly trimmed across the bottom, and their tightly closed layers of leaves were clear white at the base and bright green at the tops (see photo). Originally from the Middle East, leeks from that region still have a rounded bulb, while European growers bred leeks to have a slender cylindrical shape familiar here.

Leeks are a member of the allium family, related in both structure and flavor to onions, garlic, green onions and shallots. Rich in antioxidants, B vitamins, minerals (iron, potassium, phosphorus, magnesium, copper and calcium) and fiber, they are milder than their cousins, but more challenging to clean. Because they are grown in hills of earth to compact the base and keep the flesh white, soil becomes trapped between the layers of leaves as the plant grows.

To prepare leeks before using them in a recipe, begin by removing the root ends and the thick, dark-green leaves. The latter are too tough to eat even when cooked, although good to flavor stock. Start at the top and slice in half down the entire length of the leek. Gently fan apart the leaves under running water and rinse away the loosened grit. Discard any of the outermost leaves that are damaged or browned.

Before I share some ideas for dishes that feature leeks, you might be interested to learn how they became a symbol for the country of Wales. Leeks have been found in ancient Egyptian tomb paintings and extravagant recipes from Roman gastronome Apicius. According to food historians, Welsh warriors wore leeks in their hats to show which side they were on during a victorious battle against the Saxons in the seventh century.

While that may or may not be true, by the time of Shakespeare’s “Henry V,” the king in the play states that he is wearing a leek because he is Welsh (sometimes spelled Welch, the root of the word meaning to renege on a bet). Household accounts from the time of the Tudors show payments for leeks worn by the household guards on St. David’s Day, and 14th-century Welsh archers adopted the green-and-white colors of the leek for their uniforms.

Popular both as a vegetable and a medicinal food since the time of the Druids, leeks maintain a place in modern cuisine, from Julia Childs’ famous vichyssoise to the Scottish favorite cock-a-leekie soup of chicken, leeks, prunes, peppercorns and parsley, to the French dish known as pot au feu (which translates to “pot on the fire,” a perfect description of cooking stew.)

In today’s cooking, you can substitute leeks when recipes call for onions, especially if they will be cooked until tender; just expect a less-aggressive flavor. Thinly sliced leeks can be tossed on a salad, as you would do with shallots. For a delicious side dish, consider simply roasting or sautéing leeks into a softened pile of delicate flavor to serve alongside chicken or steak. I’ve often mixed them into mashed potatoes for color, texture and flavor interest. The recipes here are a simple introduction to the beauty of leeks!

Roasted Leeks

Preheat oven to 425 F. Trim off the root portion and dark-green tops of the leeks. Cut them in half lengthwise and rinse well to remove any trapped dirt. Arrange in a single layer, cut-side down, in a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Drizzle with olive oil and toss to coat completely. Roast for 20 minutes, then turn leeks over to cut-sides up. Sprinkle with cheese and roast until golden, about 10 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature. Yield: 6 servings.

Sautéed Leeks

Trim and discard the root end and any browned green tops of the leeks. Cut in half lengthwise; slice crosswise into one-inch pieces. Place the leeks in a bowl and cover with water, swishing to dislodge any dirt so it will settle in the bottom. Melt 1 T butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Lift the leeks from the water with a slotted spoon, shaking off any excess water. Add leeks to the pan and sprinkle with salt. Cover and reduce heat to medium low. Cook for about 30 minutes, stirring often. Remove from heat and add remaining 1 T butter; stir to combine. Adjust seasonings to taste with salt. Serve with roasted meats or stirred into mashed potatoes. Yield: 4 servings.

Leek & Tomato Quiche

Preheat oven to 375 F. Spread pie crust in pie pan, flute edges and poke holes with a fork. Bake until lightly browned, about 15 minutes, then decrease oven temperature to 350 F. Meanwhile, clean leek, discard tough green tops and slice thinly; set aside. Chop the mushrooms; set aside. Heat olive oil and butter in a skillet over medium. Stir in leeks and mushrooms; cook until softened, about 4 minutes. Halve cherry tomatoes and toss in the skillet; add parsley, salt, pepper and cheese. Stir to combine and spread the mixture evenly across the bottom of the cooked pie crust. In a small bowl, whisk together eggs and milk. Pour evenly over the vegetable mixture in the pie plate. Bake until puffy and browned, about 50 minutes. Allow to cool about 15 minutes before slicing. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.