The masterful minimalism of Kim Jones’ Dior, Ryota Iwai’s Auralee and Sarah-Linh Tran and Christophe Lemaire’s namesake collection were on the top of buyers’ wish lists this season, as arbiters of the key trends spotted for fall.
The season was a grounded, polished and tailored take on real world dressing with a new elegance. Jones’ precise palette, focus on craft and attention to detail were a highlight for elevating Dior to “a couture collection for men,” said Le Bon Marché director of men’s fashion Franck Nauerz.
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Auralee has been quietly flying under the radar for several seasons, and this year landed on the top of many buyers’ lists with his polished and comfortable collection that hit the sweet spot between warm familiarity and desirability.
“It was styled and layered to perfection, and every item has value and earns its place in the collection. It would be easy and enjoyable to wear this and only this for the entire fall season and never get bored,” said Mytheresa menswear buying director Sophie Jordan.
That relaxed sophistication carried throughout the week, while colors deepened from last season’s soft and chalky pastels toward rich hues of cherry, olive and chocolate, a palette that Bloomingdale’s men’s fashion director David Thielebuele framed in New York terms as “big upstate energy.” Outdoor gear was a trend, with Junya Watanabe Man’s collaboration with Filson a key collection.
Willy Chavarria’s stunning Paris debut took the city by storm. After a decade of building his brand, he’s not exactly a new talent, but his strong suits and powerful messaging injected a jolt of alternative energy into the otherwise conservative Paris season. He was cited as a top collection and for the best format by many buyers.
While Paris itself carried on as normal, the shows opened just a day after the inauguration of Donald Trump as U.S. president and against the backdrop of a barrage of news. “It was difficult at times to reconcile the cognitive dissonance between the material realities of living in the United States while selecting beautiful (and expensive) clothing to sell. Two shows that brought catharsis were Willy Chavarria and Walter Van Beirendonck, whose gentle political commentaries and optimism felt grounding and affirming,” said Lauren Amos, founder of Ant/Dote.
Budgets are flat or up at the major department stores, while multiband boutiques report shoppers are tightening their belts. “There is a growing attention to prices. Even our wealthy customers are getting sensitive to prices and do not spend as easily as in the past,” said Emmanuel de Bayser, co-owner of The Corner in Berlin.
Pre-collections are taking a more prominent place in buying budgets, and while streetwear has been on the back burner for a few seasons, buyers are once again starting to scout for new brands on that front.
![Backstage at Dior Men Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection at Paris Men's Fashion Week](https://wwd.com/wp-content/themes/vip/pmc-wwd-2021/assets/public/lazyload-fallback.gif)
Below a selection of key buyers’ views on the season — what’s next for fall 2025:
Lauren Amos, founder, Ant/dote
Favorite collections: Willy Chavarria, IM Men, Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, Lu’u Dan, Walter Van Beirendonck
Best show format: Willy Chavarria’s show was incredible. It felt like it brought back the feeling of the spectacle of the fashion show in a really experiential way. The separation of the show between Willy’s ready-to-wear and Adidas through a lighting and music change was genius, and playing the excerpt from Bishop Mariann Budde at the end drove his message and position home.
Top trends: Standing collars, burgundy, carpenter pants, moving away from platform shoes, less unisex collections, felt like a true men’s week.
Investment piece: Rick Owens Chainmail Taco Kiss boot, Comme des Garçons warped shoe
New talent: It was exciting to see the team for IM Men debut, and the new creative director at Dries Van Noten.
Impressions of the week: This fashion week felt kind of strange. It was difficult at times to reconcile the cognitive dissonance between the material realities of living in the United States while selecting beautiful (and expensive) clothing to sell. Two shows that brought catharsis were Willy Chavarria and Walter Van Beirendonck, whose gentle political commentaries and optimism felt grounding and affirming.
Giuseppe d’Amato, buying and merchandising director, Rinascente
Favorite collections: Louis Vuitton, Rick Owens, Dior, Willy Chavarria, Junya Watanabe
Best show format: Dior’s stairs and catwalk
Top trends: Tailoring is still confirmed and explored with wide-leg pants, velvet tailoring, varying coat lengths, and double-breasted suits. Leather and shearling were an important proposal. Paris was also very strong with the full-denim-look trend.
Investment piece: Feather boots at Rick Owens, bomber jackets, Dior Hobo bag, LV Speedy
Budgets up or down: Up
New talent: Louis Gabriel Nouchi
Impressions of the week: Interesting week, despite the lack of some shows. A strong focus on modern tailoring, sometimes in contrast with a reworked and more sophisticated streetwear. We are in a phase of change, but there are a lot of interesting signs of evolution compared to the trend of quiet luxury or the more classic tailoring to which we have been accustomed until now.
Kate Benson, chief merchant, Harvey Nichols
Favorite collections: Dior, Amiri. IM Men, Rick Owens, Willy Chavarria
Best show format: Willy Chavarria’s presentation at the American Cathedral Episcopal Church was a standout.
Top trends: Exaggerated proportions. Designers embraced oversized silhouettes, with slouchy jackets and wide-legged trousers making a significant impact. Bold color palettes and vibrant hues, including deep teals, vivid reds, and yellows, were prominent, adding energy to the collections. Technical fabrics with a focus on utilitarian and athletic elements, with technical materials and sporty designs reflecting a blend of fashion and functionality.
Investment piece: Junya Watanabe’s Filson collab Mackinaw Cruiser Jacket.
New talent: Willy Chavarria’s impactful debut in Paris marked him as a designer to watch. His ability to intertwine fashion with social commentary brings a fresh, and necessary, perspective to the industry.
Impressions of the week: This season beautifully blended tradition with innovation. Designers paid tribute to classic tailoring, while introducing modern silhouettes and materials. The week showcased the industry’s creativity and resilience, offering a dynamic range of designs that honor the past while embracing the future.
Reginald Christian, senior fashion manager, menswear, Saks
Favorite collections: Dior, Amiri, Willy Chavarria, Lemaire, Jacquemus
Best show format: Willy Chavarria, Officine Générale, KidSuper
Top trends: Remarkable outerwear was particularly strong. We saw the finest leather jackets with shearling collars, refined field coats and exceptional overcoats from Dior, Officine Générale and Junya Watanabe. There was an incredible offering of eye-catching knitwear from alpaca to bushed wools in unique styles with ribbed to intricate patterns seen at Thom Browne, Dries Van Noten and Barena.
New talent: Glass Cypress and Second/Layer
Impressions of the week: While the Paris Fashion Week calendar may have been lighter than past seasons, there was no shortage of hopefulness and excitement for the upcoming fall season. With Willy Chavarria remarkably debuting his collection in Paris, Mike Amiri reminding us of our love of cinema and the magic of Hollywood and fashion, Paris Fashion Week is always a source of inspiration, creativity and directional ideas. Between shows and presentations, there was an elevation of quality and skilled design from Dior to Sacai menswear delivering desirable and exciting styles. There was celebration of sartorial style that addressed the forward dressing man, seen best at Ami Paris and Auralee. The outdoor aesthetic of buffalo check, field jackets and trail shoes emphasized masculine moods of the season. There was also a sportiness seen throughout the collections from leather moto jackets and boots to bombers updated with cropped proportions, as well as hybrid designs and luxe sets seen at Rick Owens and Willy Chavarria. The best of the fall 2025 collections leaned into proportion play, textures and depth in details that will offer our clients an exceptional range of styles to move their wardrobes forward.
![Lemaire Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://wwd.com/wp-content/themes/vip/pmc-wwd-2021/assets/public/lazyload-fallback.gif)
Laura Darmon, buyer director and business development, ENG China
Favorite collections: Dior, Walter Van Beirendonck, Kiko Kostadinov, Ernest W. Baker, 032c
Best show format: Walter Van Beirendonck: From the venue choice to the music and accessories, the entire setup exuded UFO corporate vibes. Post Archive Faction [was] a great concept paired with exceptional garment fabrics — it felt more elevated and appealing than in previous seasons!
Top trends: Those cardigans patterns with round necklines — I’ve seen this a lot lately. Corporate attire has been a thing for a while now, but it feels a bit more playful this season.
There were many beautiful trenchcoats, with interesting work around trenches and different types of empiècements. More focus on uni-color garments this time.
Investment piece: Cardigans alongside fine jackets, perfect for midseasons, and leather gloves.
Budgets up or down: Stable mostly, growing with existing partners and picking a few new brands.
New talent: Cannone, Tareet.
Impressions of the week: It was a solid men’s fashion week with a strong focus on each brand’s DNA, which I really appreciated.
Victoria Dartigues, merchandising director fashion and accessories, Samaritaine Paris
Favorite collections: Dior, Ami, Lemaire, Songzio, Auralee, Jacquemus
Best show format: The fashion lesson at Paul Smith’s presentation by Paul Smith himself to explain its autumn 2025 collection.
Top trends: Men’s fashion is returning to its roots, with a strong emphasis on formal wardrobes. It’s not quiet luxury; it is about a mature man and about elegance: maxi coats that fall to the ground, dark style mixed with bourgeois wardrobe, sartorial attitude with an emphasis on layering.
Outerwear is still very present with a focus on technical function and versatility, pieces like modular jackets with detachable linings or multipocket jackets [or] vests that combine utility without sacrificing design and aesthetic.
Cowboy style influence is still very present on denim, suede and leather pieces. Pony is a key trend you will find on a lot of pieces or accessories.
Investment piece: Tailoring with sophisticated cuts and sublime fabric, long coat with fur, a bomber jacket, pony leather jacket or boots.
New talent: Willy Chavarria, Bluemarble, Ssstein
Impressions of the week: Paris Fashion Week was a week of dressing alignment for menswear; redefining the codes of men’s clothing. All the trends and ‘It’ products illustrate an ongoing men’s fashion scene, blending tradition with innovation.
Emmanuel de Bayser, co-owner, The Corner in Berlin
Favorite collections: Dior, Sacai, Lemaire, Rick Owens, Ami
Best show format: Dior staging was incredible. Pure elegance — diversity of silhouette shapes and material though the signature was very clear and unique. You could really enjoy the incredible craftsmanship of the Dior house, from the fabrics to the modernity of design and the couture attention to details. This is really fashion at its best with total desirability.
Top trends: Each brand that we sell in the store has a very strong identity and is a trend by itself. So, our customers don’t really buy trends. They are faithful to the brand itself, and the look and products the brand is offering every season. And they easily mix, which is our big strength in stores like us. Our editing is precise, and our customers come to us especially for that. So, we sell from workwear, tailoring, lounge and sportswear. It is more the customer himself who will pick from our buying and create the look or trend that will fit him. There is no strong diktat of special trends like in the past. You mix your own silhouette — oversized cargo pants with tailored jacket, corduroy jeans with puffer jacket, or a simple denim with T-shirt, long oversized coat and strong combat boots.
Investment piece: For fall/winter we invest in strong outerwear, coats and jackets, knitwear and boots. These are each season our best sellers.
Budgets up or down: The trend is a bit more conservative these past seasons. We see a lot of interest in fashion in our stores, with more and more customers visiting and trying things on. Berlin is very international with many tourists. The desirability is definitely growing, which is a very good sign. But people are getting more conservative when it comes to effectively buying. There is a growing attention to prices. Even our wealthy customers are getting sensitive to prices and do not spend as easily as in the past. Our budgets and buying are also driven by our customers’ behavior over the past seasons. Brands performing the best are the ones with the best mix of product positioning and price.
New talent: We liked the great energy of Willy Chavarria.
Impressions of the week: Paris is always a wonderful setting for fashion. And men’s fashion week is more relaxed with less tension. But, of course, let’s be honest: We are all waiting for some new design directions for many very influential brands. So this year will be a major year, which will be a reset and restart for many top brands. And fashion needs this: the energy of change, the power of the new.
![Willy Chavarria Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://wwd.com/wp-content/themes/vip/pmc-wwd-2021/assets/public/lazyload-fallback.gif)
Jian DeLeon, men’s fashion director, Nordstrom
Favorite collections: Lemaire, Sacai, Rick Owens, Kiko Kostadinov, Dior
Best show format: Louis Vuitton’s archival exhibition featuring the collectibles from Pharrell and Nigo’s archives that inspired the show.
Top trends: Fishtail parkas, trucker jackets, boxy leather jackets, low-profile shoes.
Investment piece: A navy leather jacket from Lemaire.
New talent: Shinpei Goto of Masu and Andreas Steiner of Rier.
Impressions of the week: Despite the gloomy weather there were a few bright spots to Paris Fashion Week, like Rick Owens’ homage to the artisans in his Concordia factory, Lemaire’s character-filled collection, and Sacai’s impressive collaborations with Ugg and a new iteration of Chitose Abe’s Carhartt WIP partnership.
Raphaël Deray, buying manager for men’s luxury and designers, Printemps
Favorite collections: Songzio, Ssstein, Sean Suen, Lemaire, Auralee
Best show format: Willy Chavarria definitely stole the spotlight this week. Live music from J Balvin, great energy. The set design was also amazing and matched the vibe perfectly. Post Archive Faction was also interesting, with the runway turned into a bed and all the models sleeping on it.
Top trends: Shearling, fur, creative ties, asymmetric tops, pony hair, corduroy, suede, military green, blood red, leopard
Investment piece: A suede bomber jacket from Ssstein and an asymmetric long coat from Songzio.
Budgets up or down: Flat budget, as fashion is going through some uncertain times.
New talent: My highlight of the week was definitely Ssstein.
Impressions of the week: On the one hand, it was a quiet fashion week for the big luxury houses and the usual designers on the lineup, but on the other hand, I feel like there was a great energy among emerging designers and newcomers, with many amazing presentations and shows.
Alice Feillard, menswear office and buying director, Galeries Lafayette
Favorite collections: Dior, Lemaire, Ami, Hed Mayner, Junya Watanabe
Best show format: Dior’s minimal black-and-white impressive set, Jacquemus’ show in Auguste Perret’s intimate apartment.
Top trends: Elevated classics: a wardrobe of reinvented classics with a modern twist. Sharp but soft tailoring, double-breasted jackets, flannels and tweeds, houndstooth and Prince of Wales. It is more a season about texture and sophisticated fabrics rather than prints. A season of beautiful coats: lots of leather, shearling, furry collars and layering. Denim is strong, corduroy velvet is back, [so too] a new shirt blouse. Outdoor and gorpcore are still very present: fashion meets performance with innovative fabrics. Workwear is still big now mixed with tailoring, like in Junya Watanabe’s show in collaboration with Filson. The color palette is dark: black, all browns, from espresso to cognac, shades of gray, the return of navy, touches of red and check prints.
Investment piece: A clean suit from Dior or Fursac, a relaxed double-breasted wool jacket with wide pants from Ami or Officine Générale, a long oversized wool coat from Lemaire, a cashmere knit from The Row, a leather jacket or a shearling coat from Rick Owens or Lemaire, large denim pants from Hed Mayner, a workwear jacket from Junya Watanabe, a tie to be worn under a knit, a soft leather tote, black leather slippers and classic loafers.
Budgets up or down: Flat
New talent: New talents and talents we continue to support are Auralee, Meta Campania Collective, Aldo Maria Camilla, 3.Paradis, Louis Gabriel Nouchi
Impressions of the week: A very good season. Paris is by far the strongest fashion week. Creativity was at its best with a good balance between megabrands and emerging talents.
Young-Su Kim, divisional merchandise officer, Bergdorf Goodman
Favorite collections: Lemaire, The Row, Rick Owens, Dior, Sacai
Best show format: The set at Dior was extraordinary — a dramatic and elegant white staircase framed by black walls.
Top trends: A continuation of the neutral color palette we’ve been seeing all season. Chocolate brown, dark gray, camel and burgundy shades were well done by Lemaire, Officine Générale, and Amiri. There was a strong focus on traditional menswear fabrics, tweeds, checks and plaids by Dries Van Noten and Thom Browne. Both Junya Watanabe and Sacai showed workwear-inspired collections that will certainly take off.
New talent: The IM Men show was beautiful with monochromatic, delicate layers in technical fabrics. The show had great energy and exemplified the brand’s ethos of beginning with a single piece of fabric. Willy Chavarria, while not new to us, had his first showing in Paris which is an amazing feat. We’re thrilled to see the momentum behind him.
Franck Nauerz, director of men’s fashion, Le Bon Marché
Favorite collections: Dior, Ami, Lemaire
Best show format: Dior’s vast, refined and minimalist space, with its gigantic white staircases, and the soundtrack perfectly highlighted the sumptuous collection. Rick Owens, on the other hand, once again captivated audiences with a grand and almost theatrical display. True to his universe, he played with dramatic lighting and striking silhouettes. His pieces, both imposing and architectural, felt like a passage into a futuristic realm. Owens’ show goes beyond presenting a collection — it’s a full sensory and artistic experience.
Top trends: Soft tailoring and quiet luxury remain key themes. Soft tailoring [offers] a more elevated, elegant aesthetic, demonstrating the expertise of the houses in the construction of garments. Fluidity of tissues, movements, amplitude, lightness, comfort.
Quiet luxury shifts towards a more casual and relaxed expression. This season invites a connection with nature, featuring pieces that blend elegance and comfort. Luxurious fabrics like cashmere and mohair take center stage, delivering softness and warmth. Loose and fluid silhouettes dominate, emphasizing freedom of movement and enhanced comfort while maintaining a sophisticated touch. Notably, trousers are becoming a defining feature of the masculine silhouette this season. Brands showcase their creativity with tailored designs, from wide and relaxed styles to more structured shapes, playing with volume and texture. This focus on the lower half of the silhouette signals a fresh approach to modernizing menswear while balancing elegance and practicality.
Investment piece: Oversize coats in cashmere, soft tailoring in flannel, and wide pants remain the must-have. In addition, this season a few standout pieces are worth adding to your wardrobe. Shearling takes the lead as a must-have, offering both warmth and elegance for winter. The mohair polo-collar cardigan also makes a comeback, blending retro charm with unmatched softness. Brushed knits dominate, showcased in warm tones like brown and green, as well as bolder shades like pink.
On the accessories front, sneakers are becoming sleeker, focusing on flexibility and ease of movement. Inspirations drawn from ballet flats add a touch of grace and fluidity, perfectly complementing the relaxed yet refined looks of the season.
New talent: Among the standout names this season, École de Pensée continues to shine. This young brand impresses with its poetic take on tailored pieces. Their ability to twist classics while maintaining timeless elegance makes them unique and highly relevant to the contemporary fashion landscape. Similarly, Song for the Mute remains a brand to follow closely. Season after season, they push boundaries with exceptional materials and meticulous attention to detail. Their artisanal approach and artistic vision bring a profound sense of depth to each collection, solidifying their place as one of the most exciting emerging brands in the industry.
Impressions of the week: Fashion week remains an intense and inspiring moment where creativity flourishes. This season stands out with a striking coherence in colors, fabrics, and silhouettes, creating a remarkable sense of harmony across collections. That said, the collections as a whole felt rather safe and commercial, with less creative risk-taking. This approach reflects a desire by brands to remain accessible while meeting market expectations, though it sometimes diminishes the element of surprise one might hope for during Fashion Week.
On a positive note, the continuation of soft tailoring, a trend that resonates deeply with our expertise, is particularly satisfying. Sleek yet relaxed silhouettes highlight a perfect balance between refinement and comfort. This casual touch, with soft materials like cashmere and mohair, brings a fresh lightness to masculine elegance. A cohesive and harmonious season, though a bit more boldness would have been welcomed.
Budgets up or down: Up!
![Junya Watanabe Man Men's Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://wwd.com/wp-content/themes/vip/pmc-wwd-2021/assets/public/lazyload-fallback.gif)
Marta Gramaccioni, buying director, LuisaViaRoma
Favorite collections: Auralee, Lemaire, Sacai, Willy Chavarria, Junya Watanabe
Best show format: Shows that blur the lines between art and presentation, creating immersive experiences. Willy Chavarria’s debut in Paris stood out for its authenticity and visual storytelling. Hed Mayner’s show at the Christian de Portzamparc-designed Café Beaubourg also left a strong impression: a fresh take on menswear classics.
Top trends: Redefined formalwear, new bold volumes and oversized silhouettes breathe new life into tailoring; elevated sneakers: designs like Kiko Kostadinov’s tabi-inspired Asics make sneakers feel innovative and luxurious; textures: leather continues to dominate, while fur — used sparingly and boldly — makes a striking statement.
Investment piece: A standout coat for layering, which can also function as a statement piece; a leather jacket: timeless and contemporary, it’s a seasonless addition to any wardrobe.
New talent: Willy Chavarria. His Paris debut positions him as a rising force in fashion, blending cultural storytelling with avant-garde design.
Impressions of the week: Paris Fashion Week continues to be a platform for discovery and innovation. Smaller brands are stepping into the spotlight, each show bringing fresh energy and new perspectives. There’s a renewed focus on originality and craftsmanship, a reminder of why Paris remains the epicenter of high fashion. It’s all about getting out there, exploring, and rediscovering what excites us about fashion.
Sophie Jordan, menswear buying director, Mytheresa
Favorite collections: Auralee, The Row, ERL
Top trends: The overall feeling this season is of real clothes; no gimmicks, just desirable and wearable clothes. The vibe feels smarter, a bit more pulled together and playing off a new balance of smart/casual. Men will be dressing with intention, as there was a lot of layering and textures to play with, allowing for a lot of individuality.
Tweeds and checks were present across many collections, which was a great update after seasons of clean and minimal focus.
Tailoring is important as always; it is soft and relaxed in feel but will be styled as separates as much as together in a suit. We’ve seen many brands styling striped “work” shirts and ties back to denim, and on the opposite side the tailored pants becoming a hero item.
Investment piece: The reactions I received about Junya Watanabe working with Filson on the latest collection tells me people are excited to actually own pieces from this collection. It’s one of the most wearable shows from Junya: straightforward and just great products — specifically the workwear jackets.
Rick Owens’ leather jackets were another favorite — the stand-up collar gives a little bit of drama on an otherwise easy bomber shape.
Finally, Satisfy are launching their own sneaker this season, which is bound to create a lot of hype following their successful collab with Hoka. There is a lot of momentum with the brand at the moment, as running continues to be a focus in our customer’s lifestyle, but ultimately down to continuing to lead the space for desirable and highly functional running product.
New talent: A.Presse from Japan is an exciting find this season. The collection and team behind it impressed me on every level. Every category is so well considered and built out in a very impressive way for a brand only four years old. It is a true luxury product at the highest standard of quality, but with a modern and cool sensibility that is rare to find.
Impressions of the week: It’s been a strong season! I feel I’ve seen a lot more newness coming through, which is exactly what we needed. Brands were less keen to play it safe and were embracing how they can create emotion with the customer to buy, but still staying true to their own DNA.
Simon Longland, buying director, fashion, Harrods
Favorite collections: Louis Vuitton, Lemaire, Junya Watanabe, Rick Owens, Dior
Top trends: Rich, dark brown tones, the resurgence of tweed and tartan fabrics, versatile tailoring from boxy and relaxed to sharp and sculptural silhouettes, diverse trouser styles ranging from pencil slim to wide and fluid, bold statement outerwear, and elevated evening and occasion wear.
Investment piece: Personally, I am particularly drawn to a tweed Dries Van Noten jacket paired with wide tweed trousers, a Lemaire overcoat, a jacket from Junya Watanabe and brown tailoring from IM Men, which we will be launching for AW25, each offering distinctive elements that cater to varied styles.
Impressions of the week: Overall, this season successfully married tradition with modernity, presenting collections that were both timeless and forward-thinking. I am confident that our clientele will respond positively to the selections.
![Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection at Paris Men's Fashion Week](https://wwd.com/wp-content/themes/vip/pmc-wwd-2021/assets/public/lazyload-fallback.gif)
Bosse Myhr, director of menswear, womenswear and childrenswear buying, Selfridges
Favorite collections: Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, Junya Watanabe Man in collaboration with Filson, Gallery Dept., Dior, Grace Wales Bonner
Best show format: Willy Chavarria’s show, with the live performance by J Balvin and an amazing setting at the American Church in Paris. It made for a highlight with a model cast that included Jerry Lorenzo. A very memorable Paris debut show. Louis Vuitton was a fantastic showcase. The collection in collaboration with Nigo showed what are sure to be highly sought-after items. The KidSuper show set at a concert venue outside Paris. It featured an inside tornado, a collaboration with A Bathing Ape and a collection fit for any occasion.
Top trends: The great outdoors. Outerwear and hiking boots. Checks in different guises, as well as leathers and shearlings.
Investment piece: Statement outerwear, for example, at Undercover and Junya Watanabe. The shoes at Comme des Garçons that were pointing upwards were fantastic.
Impressions of the week: Overall, it was a quieter season in terms of shows, but the quality of the collections was evident across the board, and really cements Paris as the destination for men’s fashion.
Bruce Pask, senior editorial director, Neiman Marcus
Favorite collections: Willy Chavarria, Junya Watanabe’s collaboration with Filson, Dior, Lemaire, Givenchy
Best show format: Willy Chavarria’s truly moving show at the American Cathedral, bedecked with the most ravishing display of roses I’ve ever seen, was the toast of the town. J Balvin walked and also took to the mic. Jerry Lorenzo and a cast of very special guests made appearances on the runway. A profoundly moving finale of Willy leading his cast up the aisle to a truly touching oration was absolutely memorable and a high point in Paris.
Sir Paul Smith took a few very special guests to school for an intimate master class on his design process and inspiration. He shared the impact his father had on his development as a creative and a viewer of all things in charming anecdotes that gave beautiful dimension to his collection.
Fabric took flight in the debut show from IM by Issey Miyake. Models unsnapped and deconstructed their airy, caped coats to resemble shapes held by moving, robotic arms on the runway. They raised them high and then picked up speed as the music grew in intensity, running holding their capes aloft, floating and flying behind them. It was a moment.
Mike Amiri’s swanky cocktail club was the perfect setting for his glamorous, Hollywood after dark, ’70s inflected collection.
Pierre Mahéo took over his local café, an authentic Parisian bistro from the ’50s, for an incredibly charming, very personal Officine Générale show. Models walked in off the street, each meandering around the rooms in his directional, fashionable wardrobe of rich neutrals.
Top trends: Volume and dramatic plays on proportion are leading the design conversation here, with drop-shouldered jackets and oversized outerwear, full-cut pants and denim, and slouchy shapes seen in most collections, from Jacquemus to Lemaire. Embellishment and decoration were prominent, with beading, embroidery, printing, and furry details giving a little extra glamour to collections from Dior, Amiri, and others. We also saw a lot of texture, with velvet, corduroy, and velour adding richness. There was an incredible array of fantastic overcoats and tailored topcoats, the preferred warmers of the season. Neutral colors were the name of the game, accented with rich tonalities of burgundy and deep green. A slim runner is the key sneaker shape.
Investment piece: The Row suede and leather outerwear and an incredibly soft cashmere knit pant, a Dior evening jacket or suit along with a satin bow capped toe shoe, and a voluminous overcoat from Lemaire.
New talent: Menswear veteran Aaron Levine presented his first namesake collection of cool knitwear, great relaxed shirting, and some of the best pants around. Kartik Research’s beautifully crafted and embellished collection was charming, nicely styled, and had great personality. EZR’s bandana-adorned sportswear collection gave denim new novelty.
Impressions of the week: Rainy weather couldn’t dampen the excitement of the designer menswear being shown in Paris. There were some exciting debuts, strong showings and collections on the runway, and showrooms all over town filled with great brands from around the world to discover. Paris has truly become the global marketplace for menswear.
Joseph Tang, fashion director, Holt Renfrew
Favorite collections: Dior, IM Men, Amiri, Sacai
Best show format: While this wasn’t the official debut of Dries Van Noten under Julian Klausner’s direction, we were impressed by the first glimpses of the collection presented in the showroom.
Top trends: Preppy tailoring: A rising trend across collections, emphasizing personalized interpretations of traditional tailoring. Designers like Sacai, Amiri and Ami showcased unique approaches to deconstructing the traditional suit, incorporating individuality through thoughtful layering and styling. Western workwear: A standout theme this season, highlighted by brands like Louis Vuitton, Junya Watanabe, and Sacai. Key pieces include bootcut trousers paired with Western-inspired outerwear, which are poised to become must-haves next season. Creative expression and conceptual design: Collections by IM Men, Rick Owens, and Dior demonstrated exceptional conceptual design, using fabric and silhouette to evoke a distinct vision for the season.
Investment piece: Outerwear remains an essential focus for our customers during the fall collections. This season, standout pieces include Junya Watanabe’s collaboration with Filson and Sacai’s partnership with Carhartt, both of which are poised to become must-haves for our clients this fall.
New talent: Willy Chavarria’s debut show in Paris reinforced the impact a fashion show can have in delivering a powerful message. The collection fully immersed the audience in the community Willy has famously cultivated.
Impressions of the week: Paris was a melting pot of creativity this season, with self-expression as a dominant theme. The fashions were bold and unapologetic, from reinterpreted tailoring to the continued rise of workwear and Western influences. Designers demonstrated an ability to balance innovation with wearability, resulting in compelling collections. If there’s one takeaway, it’s that designers are elevating the everyday wardrobe, ensuring male customers will be exceptionally well-dressed this fall.
![Ami Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection at Paris Men's Fashion Week](https://wwd.com/wp-content/themes/vip/pmc-wwd-2021/assets/public/lazyload-fallback.gif)
David Thielebuele, men’s fashion director, Bloomingdale’s
Favorite collections: Auralee, The Row, Lemaire, Ami, Rick Owens, Dior
Best show format: At IM Men, which took over Homme Plissé’s Paris time slot for Issey Miyake this season, two large robotic arms hovered above the runway, holding black panels several feet in the air. As the models emerged, the arms began a slow, rhythmic dance above. At the show’s conclusion, the models unfurled their final looks — large pieces of fabric they held aloft as they ran past the arms, almost as if signaling to the dark, shifting panels. In the stark white space, the interplay between human and robotic motion created a striking, almost magical fusion.
Top trends: Observation seemed to be the word on everyone’s lips in Paris this season. Whether it was a normcore return or simply drawing inspiration from the everyday, collections from Auralee, Lemaire, Ami and more appeared to absorb the world around them — or even look inward to their own wardrobes — before sending their very best down the runway. Real life, rather than fantasy, was the guiding theme, with an emphasis on relaxed ease and sophistication. Also worth noting is an appreciation for nature and escaping into the wild — big upstate energy was definitely on display. Colors have deepened from spring’s chalky pastels, with rich hues of cherry, olive, and chocolate taking center stage.
Investment piece: It is time for a new coat — novel outerwear, whether in terms of proportion, texture, or color, has been a dominant trend everywhere.
Impressions of the week: Paris is undoubtedly the reigning fashion capital, and even in the rain, it offered endless inspiration. Authentic elegance was the standout, with the message clear: keeping it simple and staying true to oneself is the way forward.
Daniel Todd, buying director, Mr Porter
Favorite collections: Auralee, A.Presse, Lemaire, Rick Owens, Willy Chavarria
Best show format: Willy Chavarria’s Paris debut at the American Cathedral was an unforgettable moment celebrating optimism, culture and unity illustrated through a romantic, powerful collection rooted in his Latino-American heritage. A parade of bold velvets, rose-adorned blazers and voluminous silhouettes were shown on an array of Chavarria’s diverse community, from model Erik Martinez to fellow designer Jerry Lorenzo and J Balvin — who also performed at the show.
Top trends: Shades of brown, pinstripes, alongside heritage fabrics such as tweed, corduroy, fleck knits and leather, were key trends seen across multiple brands this season.
Investment piece: Leather took center-stage everywhere this season; from Amiri to Lemaire. An impeccably crafted leather jacket is a smart investment for its versatility across any outfit.
New talent: A.Presse delivered an exceptional collection for their second season in Paris.
Impressions of the week: Across every collection, there is a universal embrace of craftsmanship, fabric and form used to reimagine understated essentials for an enduring yet modern wardrobe.
Will Zhang, founder, SND
Favorite Collections: Auralee’s FW25 collection is undoubtedly one of my favorites this season. The brand continues to redefine the “future commuter” concept introduced last season, blending bright colors and functional fabrics with elegance to reach new design heights.
Best Show Format: Lemaire’s fall 2025 finale was undeniably one of the most talked-about highlights of this fashion week. Alongside casting Bae Doona, whose aura aligns perfectly with the brand, the show’s guest list featured Chinese actress Yuan Quan, adding an extra spark. Each look in the show maintained Lemaire’s signature storytelling style, using fashion to reflect personality and purpose.
Top Trends: Although it’s a fall/winter season, many brands boldly embraced color, showcasing rich layers and hues. Layering continued to shine with a strong sense of practicality, injecting new vitality into traditional winter markets. The workwear jacket trend persisted, especially with nods to Carhartt’s iconic Detroit Jacket, as many brands incorporated their unique flair into this timeless silhouette. Thin-soled sneakers also remained a dominant force.
Investment Pieces: Look 12, 33, 43, and 44 at Lemaire, and look 9, 11, 13, 19, and 32 at Auralee.
Budgets Up or Down: Given the current market environment, we continue to adopt a conservative budget strategy, consistent with the previous season. While every season brings exceptional designs, we prioritize adjusting our budget based on market trends and consumer behavior to better align with SND’s current needs.
New Talent: Kartik Research. A 2023 LVMH Prize semi-finalist, this brand made its Paris Fashion Week debut last year with its FW24 collection. For fall 2025, it presented its work in an Indian restaurant in Paris’s 11th arrondissement. Historically, India has been seen as a labor resource in the fashion industry, but Kartik Research marks a significant step in integrating India into the global fashion ecosystem. The designer reinterprets traditional craftsmanship, creating one-of-a-kind garments while exploring specific Indian subcultures and personas, offering a fresh design perspective.
Impressions of the Week: This year’s Paris Fashion Week was unusually cold, with continuous rain and a tight schedule adding to the challenges. Yet, the timing during the Chinese New Year period brought warmth and a sense of connection to our meetings. Despite the harsh weather, this season remained a meaningful gathering, adding a distinct cultural depth to the fashion week experience.
— With contributions from Samantha Conti, Lily Templeton, Jennifer Weil, Alex Wynne and Tianwei Zhang.